Friday, April 16, 2010

Agrarian Reform in the Amazon


I am not going to run or abandon the fight of the people of the forest, who are unprotected. They have the sacred right to a life with dignity.
-Sister Dorothy
Hi everyone. Right now I am in Marabá, the second largest city in Pará. This is the second most violent city in Brazil and I will tell you why in a second. First, I need to brief you on the basic history of land conflicts in the Amazon in the last 100 years.
The Amazon is full of people. Not just indigenous people, no. In fact, most inhabitants are ribeirinhos- decendents of european and indigenous groups who live extracting resources from the forest. Put it in your mind right now that the Amazon is a deserted area. People live here and have done so for longer than most American families have lived on their land.
In the early year of the 20th century, Brazil went through a lot of governmental change. It became independent through political tactics, not through war, so it never really had a period of setting up the government like the United States had. Back and forth the power would go, and I will skip ahead to the 1950s when the military took over the government. At this point the counrty was in debt to foreign nations and at the same time wanted to come in to the modern age. The military government decided to promote economic growth by giving away large tracks of land to people and companies, giving ridiculous tax breaks to anyone who promised to create economic activity. The Amazon, seemingly useless in terms of production, was divided up and given to pretty much anyone. (The motive behind this also involved a paranoia that this ´´uninhabited´´ land needed to be defended from foreign invaders if no one was there to protect it.) The slogan of the government became ´´Land without people for people without land.´´
Long story short- thousands of people swarmed to the Amazon region to stake their claim, along with multi-national corporations. BUT THE AMAZON IS HUGE! Most of the land had been unmapped at that time and the population was growing so fast (56% a year during the 1960s) that no government aganecy could keep track of who had what land. They didn´t care, either. So the fight began- big business fighting with newly immigrated peasants fighting with people who had already lived in the area at the time. Land conflicts began to be solved with hired gunmen and excessive violence. This trend continues to this day.
Small family farmers began to organize in the late 1970s and early 80s through church groups. Churches were the only social organizations allowed under the military regime. This was how the famous Landless People´s Movement was created. Farmers fought and their leaders were killed. Over eight hundred rural leaders were murdered in the last ten years for defending their right to land and life. Sister Dorothy, a nun from Ohio, was one of them. Chico Mendes was another...I can go on for hours.
Tomorrow we are going to a place called the S Curve. On April 17, 1996, nineteen rural workers were violently murdered during a peaceful protest asking the government for food and transportation to the nation´s capital. I will be there for the anniversary. Wish all the gatherers peace and luck during their demonstrations.
There is a lot more I would like to tell you, but I guess I will do that face-to-face. I miss all of you so much. I am not just saying that to be nice, I really do feel like I am missing a part of me. Keep me in your thoughts tomorrow.

Today´s mission: Learn about the ´´question of land´´ in the Brazilian Amazon. Look up the stories of Sister Dorothy and Chico Mendes.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Too tired, too sick

Hello again.
Tomorrow we're beginning another trip to the south of Pará. This time we'll be driving the entire way. Most of the trip is focused on the Movimento Sem Terra, or the Landless People's Movement. We'll be learning about their lifestyle, their involvement in the government and their history. On April 17 we will be in a place called "Curva do S." About 15 years ago, Brazilian police killed 14 MST members in what was called the massacre of Eldorado. Since we'll be their on the anniversary of this massacre, we'll be able to attend demonstrations and pay respects. Educate yourself about MST and give them your support.
Other highlights of the coming trip include another 3-day rural homestay, this time with an MST family. I'm a little wary of this experience, since this area is known for eating a lot of meat. Yes, even more-so than other Brazilians. My host mom and I are making a little vegetarian survival kit for the ten day trip.
In any case, I can't get too excited for the trip. I'm pretty tired and I little sick. I also have a bunch of stuff to do regarding my final project. It will be a good experience to learn more about the MST, though. We will also be visiting the third largest hydro-electric dam in the world. The government of Pará is planning on building the first and second largest in the coming years. That's gonna hurt a lot of people and a lot of forest.
Well, I have got a TON of work to do, so I'll talk to you later.
Tchau

Today's mission: Read something outside the main-stream media.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Heading back to Belém, A 21 year old's story

Hey all!
I am sitting in a snazy hotel in the neopolitan city of Santarém, in the western part of Pará. My flight back to Belém is tomorrow morning at seven.
Yes, my birthday was wonderful. We crossed the Rio Negro in to the Rio Amazona, a juncture where black water and white water meet. The white and black water flow along each other for miles before mixing and it is a beautiful and mysterious sight. There was a rainbow over the Meeting of the Waters that day, and I spent my birthday watching the river dolphins jump out of the water. To celebrate we had two cakes- chocolate and corn cake. My entire twenty-first was spent in a boat and swimming in the Meeting of the Waters.
Well, what happened between Manaus and now? A lot, as you can imagine. After my last post we drove to Novo Airão, the last stop on the Rio Negro that can be reached by car. There we had a lecture with a local NGO that promotes economic development of that city. I got to translate the entire lecture from Portuguese to English to my class. The NGO has a branch called NovArte which cells arts and crafts made by local people and made from local peoples. I bought my mother a birthday gift there. That night we met our boat that would take us up the Rio Negro and down the Amazon for the rest of the trip.
The day after (March 20) Novo Airão we reached the Rio Unini through the Rio Negro. Four of my friends and I were dropped of at a rural community in Rio Unini extractive reserve. About thirty people live in Lagos das Pedras and I spent three days living the Caboclo lifestyle with them. IT WAS WONDERFUL! Everyday was swimming, hiking, collecting manioc, making farinha or just shooting the shit in the middle of the Amazon rain forest. A beautiful community, and I already miss my small family there.
The day after I left was my birthday (March 24) and you already know about that. Dolphins. Rainbow. Meeting of the Waters. Fun times.
A day later (March 25) we arrived in the Juruti region. I have to say that this is the most absolutely gorgeous region I have ever been too. Green rolling hills as far as the eye can see and glittering rivers and lakes taking you to small Caboclo communities living the life. An American company called ALCOA is destroying this area due to there bauxite extraction. That is what they use to make aluminum. Luckily, there is a strong group of Caboclos fighting the power- ASCOJURVE. Look them up and support them.
The next day (March 26) we went into a close the main town of Juruti and conducted interviews. My group had to ask people on the street how they thought education has changed since ALCOA came in to the region. I will tell you more about that once the report is written.
On March 28 we reached Santarém, where I am now. We had nothing to do so we simply went in to town, ate ice cream and swam. The next day we took a tour of the Cargill soy bean holding plant located right on the Rio Tapájos. How was it? What do YOU think? It's Cargill!
That day we met the Projeto Saude e Alegria!!!!! The Health and Happiness Project. CHECK THEM OUT!!!! www.saudeealegria.org.br. SOOOOOOOOOOOOO AMAZING! I hope one day I get to work with them.
You're pretty much up to date. Today we went to a community that is associated with the Health and Happiness Project. They raise fish, bees and have and ecotourism industry that does not involve buying pretty much anything. They collect food and materials from the forest and sustainably support their economy. I bought some ridiculously delicious honey from them. So serious, you never had honey like this. It's collected from native bees that do not sting, which collect their nectar from the surrounding forest. Beautiful.
Happy Birthday again to mommy. I am missing all of you deeply.

Today's Mission: Use money from my birthday present to donate to a good cause. Te amo.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Down Rio Unini

Holly looks out over the plaza to the Teatro das Amazônas in Manaus.

I arrived in Manaus Wednesday at two in the morning. I woke up at eight o'clock and spent the morning exploring this city with some friends. It is a pretty tourist-friendly place and I got to a lot of take pictures because of that. There are fewer thieves then in Belém, and a lot more of us gringos.
Manaus is beautiful. This Amazonian city made bank at the end of the eighteenth century because of the rubber boom. Now it is an industrial free trade zone and a popular tourist destination. The buildings here are beautiful and I am lucky enough to be an a hotel right down the street from the Teatro das Amazônas.
During Wednesday afternoon we went to the Instituto da Permacultura das Amazônas (IPA). It is and absolutely gorgeous research institute working in sustainable farming techniques. We had a full-on organice lunch and afterwards had a tour of the center. We ate so much fruit that fell from the trees and saw several amazing projects ranging from bee-keeping to the collection of bio-gas from pig waste.
Today we went to the Fundadção Vitoria Amazônia. It is an NGO that connects rural Amazonian communities to public policy. That description is an over-simplification of their work, but I do not have time to go in to detail. The group is also helping us enter a national park in the amazon and stay with families there.
This afternoon we went tot the largest rain forest research institution in the world- Instituto Nacional da Pesquisa da Amazônia (INPA). Dr. Gonçalo Ferraz spoke to us about forest fragmentation and its affect on biodiversity. I hope to keep in touch with him as I am interested in doing a project with INPA.
Tomorrow we leave Manaus at 5:00AM to take a six hour bus trip to Novo Airão. Novo Airão is the western-most city you can reach by car along the Amazon River. We have a quick lecture there before we board the boat that will take us up the river. We will spend the night on the boat and then meet our rural families on March 20.
At this moment I would like to wish my mother a happy birthday. The same day I meet my rural family is the day my mom embarks on a new year of life. I could not have gone on this trip without her love and undying belief in my capabilities. I owe so much to this woman and I am sorry that I cannot be with her on her day. I love you so much, mom, you don't even know. I will put a flower in the river for you and ask for a wonderful new year for you. Eu te amo, mamãe. Obrigada por minha vida.

Today's mission: Think about travel in a new way. Why go to a city that is just like America when there are so many things to see in this world?

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Off again


Sugar cane and cacau fruit- Sao Francisco do Para
Hey kids!
I spent three days learning about rain forest ecology and sustainable agriculture in the Bragantina are of Brazil- 98% deforested. Really interesting, really fun. Got bitten in all sorts of unmentionable places.
We split up in to three groups to study different forest issues. My group was assigned a project on gap dynamics. We planned and executed an experiment in one. Our hypothesis was that if there was more leaf litter on the ground of the gap, then a larger population of plants would arise, independent of light variables. We found no correlation. Science!
Today I am taking an 11:30 pm flight to Manaus. One week in Manaus, about two on a boat. It´s all happening.
I am happy and well. I will be out of contact for the majority of this Manaus trip. I have hundreds of pictures that I´ll try to put up soon. Check out my other blog for more detailed info and pictures: www.reachtheworld.org/journey/journeytobrazil
Hawt.